Brooklyn is full of beautiful tree-lined streets developed mostly from the 1830's-1890's with grand old brownstones and brick townhouses filled with original architectural details, dotted with the occasional historic church or huge patch of
Olmsted and Vaux designed greenspace. Areas as diverse as Brooklyn Heights, Fort Greene and Bedford-Stuyvesant all have amazing residential gems remaining from their origins as middle and upper-middle class neighborhoods (albeit often in varying condition today). Williamsburg, on the other hand, lacks this grander architectural history.
Both Williamsburg and neighboring Greenpoint have, since at least the 1850's and until very recently, been hardscrabble, working-class neighborhoods filled with a variety of industrial buildings and modest but often charming residential stock. The long decline of industry in New York, the gentrification of the area since the 1990's and the mega real estate bubble of the last decade meant Williamsburg was ground zero for an injection of new development. Massive rezoning from manufacturing to residential followed by a rush to beat a height restriction deadline meant that entire blocks, even stretches of multiple blocks were torn down just as the market collapsed. What is left is often depressing scenes like this one:
A mix of funky but original old warehouses, wood frame single and multiple family homes covered in vinyl siding, plus huge trash strewn empty lots and tacky new stucco and glass condos towering above the surrounding area. Not exactly a romantic landscape of architectural wonder. Despite its looks, however, I love my neighborhood. It has some of the best restaurants in Brooklyn (I'll even say in all of New York, but more on that later) and the list of well conceived, unique local businesses grows by the day. There are also lots of original "local" old family businesses that are hanging on or even thriving as the inexorable march of gentrification continues. It may be ugly, even tacky, somewhat toxic, and slightly forlorn at times, but it is home.
This past weekend was spent running a lot of errands and doing a little domestic shopping. In the spirit of a Bay Area friend who regularly recognizes
the merits of her neighborhood in Oakland (in my mind, the sort-of Brooklyn of San Francisco) I have documented my errand run in a celebration of my favorite local businesses. First stop of the day:
Brooklyn Kitchen at 616 Lorimer Street. I picked up two new cookbooks, the Cook's Illustrated Best 30 Minute Recipe book for when I need to whip up something for myself or my boyfriend as well as Ruth Reichl's Gourmet Cookbook, for when we decide to entertain. Skimming them both, I am excited to move beyond the beloved Barefoot Contessa rut I have been stuck in. I also asked the girls at BK about their new venture, which I mentioned
here. Opening day is November 9th. I am going to start a countdown clock, but in the meantime went by to get a look at the building.
Not much to look at, at this point. Inside culinary bliss awaits. OP-EN! OP-EN! OP-EN!
While walking to my next stop, I came across this former gas station at Meeker Avenue and Lorimer Street (which I had often admired as a good spot for some sort of nightlife). Low and behold, it is under renovation to become a restaurant. I have researched and asked around, but cannot seem to find any information on it. Anyone know anything?
Judging from the interior details I spied, as well as the new window frames going in, my guess is semi-ironic BBQ joint. We will see if I am right.
Onward! I picked up some light bulbs at my local hardware store. The family owned
Crest True Value franchise at 558 Metropolitan Avenue has really tweaked their business and marketing model to appeal the the neighborhood's younger newcomers, who seem to be into DIY home improvement. They always have great sales on gardening supplies, and are always super friendly to my boyfriend and me when we go in together... not a customer service quality you find often at all old-school local businesses in the area.
More to come tomorrow...
As fall sets in and the outdoor garden dies back, I focus my energies on the indoor plants that will keep the apartment feeling clean and fresh during the winter. Cactus, furns, and some exotic tropicals are the bright green guys that keep the gray of winter at bay.
Staghorn fern. Just soak in the kitchen sink once a week.
White cinnamon tree. It needs lots of water in summer, and almost none in winter... just like in its native Florida.
This hibiscus is a new addition this year. We'll see how successful it is as an indoor plant.
The interior is now apartments (of course) but this incredible quasi-neo-gothic arch work remains. An apartment in the building was featured in Nest magazine (RIP). If anyone knows which issues, please tell me!
I then stopped by 
This 18th century Jewish merchant's dwelling, in the city's medina, was lovingly restored by a pair of Italian architects. Roberto Peregalli and Laura Sartori Rimini wanted their shared home to look like merchant's home it was, filled with Morrocan, Tunisian, Indian, Sicilian, Syrian and Spanish elements, but rediscovered by some 1860's romanticist traveler. It's the kind of design narrative I just love.
I mean, really.
Here is the library. The walls above the tiles were painted with multiple layers of different colored paint before being lime washed over to get this ancient, diaphanous effect. 
That wallpaper is antique 19th century.
This is called the Indian bedroom. Fantastic Anglo-Indian bedframe with paisley bedspread.
The building was originally a private townhome, built in 1847, for a wealthy banker. During the 1840's the streets around Gramercy Park and the 20's and 30's along 5th Avenue were the most exclusive neighborhoods in the city. Gramercy Park is one of only two private parks in the city that requires a key for entry, and the only one in Manhattan. By the time the club was founded in the 1880's the area was no longer the most fashionable place to call home (that title had moved uptown to 5th Avenue just below Central Park). Gramercy had, however, become a symbol of 
