LUANG PRABANG, LAOS

Luang Prabang, the former royal capital of Laos, is a world away from Vientiane. Cool, lush, quiet and charming, Luang Prabang is the Laos of your dreams, and one of my favorite destinations on this trip.

The city has been known by several names and been transformed many times over its long history. As Muang Sua and then Xiang Dong Xiang Thong, the city was the center of a kingdom that fell under the influence of Chinese, Mongol, and Khmer states. After 1353 it became the capital of the Khmer backed kingdom of Lan Xang, which encompassed much of modern Laos. When the capital of the kingdom was moved to Vientiane in 1560, the name was changed again to Luang Prabang to honor the ancient Buddhist relic housed here, and the city remained a center of royalty and Buddhist study. When the French took control, they allowed the monarchy to remain in Luang Prabang and added their own imprint to the city. Today, as a World Heritage Site, "LP" is well visited, but does not feel like a tourist trap (sort of like Hoi An did). There is still a vibrant, authentic town that operates here, and it is intoxicating.

One of the most beautiful temples seen on our journey was Wat Xieng Thong, a monastic complex dating from 1560 and one of only two temples in the city to be spared in the 1887 Chinese Haw troops fleeing the Taiping Rebellion.

Just beautiful!

The grounds of the former royal palace.

This is a typical early 20th century wealthy family's home preserved as a museum.

Our most magical evening of the entire trip thus far fell on the night of the full moon. First a royal puppet show at a temple near our hotel.

We proceeded to another temple, which we walked around three times, holding incense, flowers and candles along with a hundred townspeople. The moon was bright, the candles were atmospheric, the monks were beating drums at a rate that seemed almost danceable, fire fueled lanterns floated above, the air was filled with incense and Luang Prabang took its spot as my favorite city we have visited.

The next day we visited an elephant rescue camp and a gorgeous waterfall. Normally you can swim, but it was a bit too chilly when we were there.

We had mixed feelings about riding one of these amazing creatures. Lan Xang Hom Khao, the full name for the former kingdom of Laos, means "land of a million elephants." Only 1,000 Asian elephants survive in the wild in Laos, and another 1,000 are domesticated. Many of those are used in the logging industry, where they are worked to the bone and abused. Rescue centers like the one we visited give former logging elephants a chance at a happier life and rehabilitation. Like many tourist-oriented activities in this part of the world, including hill-tribe visits and preserved town centers, the elephant rides are a double edged sword. It is better than working in logging (for many reasons) but also sad that these highly intelligent and sensitive creatures are not able to survive in the wild.

Luang Prabang also had some of my favorite food on the trip. Above, a home-cooked meal we ate with a Lao-Loum (lowland Lao) family that farms cotton. They were gracious and lovely but we felt (once again) that visiting the homes of villagers is a strange form of tourism. Good in that it provides income where there might not be enough and allows for cross cultural experiences, but bad in that it turns their daily life into a bit of a "human theme park." It is hard to decide if visiting is the right or the wrong thing. There is not a clear answer in a part of the world that is changing as quickly as this one.

Sindad, a fantastic grilled-at-the-table dinner of broth and cooked meat and vegetables.

And khao say Luang Prabang, a local speciality of rice noodles with soy bean sauce, tomato, minced pork and onion. YUM.

VICTORIA AND ALBERT

I could have spent months exploring the Victoria and Albert Museum.  Sadly I was limited to one afternoon, so I concentrated on the section of British decorative arts 1500-1900.  Fantastic.  To protect many of the works, the museum keeps lighting exceptionally low.  This makes for difficult photography (flash would damage delicate fabrics and paints) but it did mean a really moody time walking through the galleries.  I loved it.

An unusually simple Chinoiserie style British Georgian period chair.

A settee from the Stuart period is extremely rare for its well preserved upholstery and trim.  Upholsterers were the interior designers of the 18th century, and were often responsible for the decor of entire rooms or suites of rooms in estates of the well-to-do.

The Great Bed of Ware, circa 1590.  Famous for its massive size... it was a 16th and 17th century tourist attraction at an inn in Ware, England and is said to hold up to 12 couples.  I didn't ask further.

At some point, Ted felt the need to carve his name in this fine example of Tudor design.  Rude.

My favorite piece was this Victorian period vanity.  Not much to say... it was just exquisite.

PLAYERS CLUB

We attended a wedding this weekend at a classic institution of late 19th century New York: The Players Club.

Founded in 1888 by Edwin Booth (brother of Lincoln assassin John Wilkes) Mark Twain and General William Tecumseh Sherman, the Players Club became a home for intellectuals, writers, and especially actors of the time.  Members still include many famous names from screen and stage.

The building was originally a private townhome, built in 1847, for a wealthy banker.  During the 1840's the streets around Gramercy Park and the 20's and 30's along 5th Avenue were the most exclusive neighborhoods in the city.  Gramercy Park is one of only two private parks in the city that requires a key for entry, and the only one in Manhattan.  By the time the club was founded in the 1880's the area was no longer the most fashionable place to call home (that title had moved uptown to 5th Avenue just below Central Park).  Gramercy had, however, become a symbol of old New York gentility... and thus an excellent location for a club that celebrated the artistic and intellectual legacy of the city.

Here is the library around 1907

And today...

There is a great accumulation of portraits, books and old stuffs.  Check it out:

This guy had a good spirit.

Images via musuem planet.com, theatre jones and Piera Gelardi

GARDENS OF THE MISSION

The Mission San Juan Capistrano has a beautiful series of gardens scattered over its property.

One thing the (still Catholic Church consecrated) Mission is short on is accurate history.  The gardens are so quiet and peaceful, and the presentations in the mission museum paint a romantic picture of pastoral community.  In reality, the Spanish enslaved the native population to build the place, and essentially wiped out the local Juaneno culture.  What little was left was paved over by American settlers.

Orange County has always been friendly to the forces of development, and these forces almost always win.  A recent victory against the developers, however, was the nixing of a highway that was to blast its way through a state park, treasured surf spot, endangered species habitat and archeological site south of San Clemente.  The fact that it was even proposed shows how weak opposition usually is in the face of a money making proposal.

To learn more about the native heritage of Orange County, efforts to preserve what little is left of it, and of the natural environment in Southern OC, check out the local division of the Sierra Club or the local chapter of the Surfrider Foundation.