SURF & TURF

We went to Cape Cod for a long weekend and ended up celebrating not only three 30th birthdays (including mine... late) but lots of other good news as well, including an engagement that occurred while we were there!  We had a celebratory dinner of classic broiled steak, lobster salad, and french potato salad.  It was a blustery, cold spring night on the cape, but we used the summer fare and some champagne to toast to the future.

Lobster Salad

(recipe adapted from Sunday Supper at Lucques)

serves 6

5 live Maine lobsters, 2 pounds each

10 ounce slab applewood smoked bacon

1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil

1-1/2 cup fresh corn (or frozen if fresh is out of season)

1 teaspoon thyme leaves

2 tablespoons finely diced shallots

3 tablespoons lemon juice

pinch of cayenne pepper

3 ripe avocados

3/4 pint cherry tomatoes

2 large heads butter lettuce, leaves separated, cleaned and dried

2 tablespoons sliced basil

kosher salt

fresh ground pepper

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat.  Insert the tip of a large chef knife just below the eyes of each lobster-- this will kill them instantly.  Add the lobsters to the pot of water and completely submerge them.  Cook for 10 minutes and then remove immediately to a bowl of ice water.  When the lobsters have cooled, remove the meat from the shells and set aside.  You can use the shells to make a great lobster stock to freeze for future use.

Slice the bacon into 3/8" cubes and cook for about 5 minutes in a hot pan on high heat.  Remove to a plate with paper towels and drain the fat from the pan.  Return the pan to a medium heat, add the corn, thyme, 1/4 teaspoon salt and pinch of black pepper.  Saute for 3-4 minutes until the corn is cooked.  If you are using frozen corn just cook until heated through.  Remove from heat and let cool.  For the vinaigrette, place the shallots, lemon juice and 1/4 tablespoon salt in a small bowl.  Let sit for 5 minutes, then whisk in the olive oil and a pinch of cayenne.  Season to taste.  Cut the avocados into cubes and and cut the cherry tomatoes in half.  Toss the lobster, avocados, tomatoes, corn, bacon and vinaigrette in a large bowl and arrange over lettuce.  Scatter basil on top and serve.

Some beautiful red meat, ready to be seared in a pan on the stove, then broiled to medium rare perfection.

French Potato Salad

(recipe adapted from Barefoot Contessa)

serves 6

3 pounds mixed fingerling potatoes

4 tablespoons good dry white wine

4 tablespoons chicken stock

4 tablespoons champagne vinegar

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/4 cup minced scallions

2 tablespoons minced fresh dill

2 tablespoons minced flat-leaf parsley

2 tablespoons chiffonade of fresh basil leaves

kosher salt

fresh ground pepper

10 tablespoons good olive oil

Boil the potatoes in salted water for 20-30 minutes until they are cooked through.  Drain and let cool, then cut in half.  Place in a medium bowl and toss gently with wine and chicken stock and let sit to soak up the liquid.  Combine the vinegar, mustard, salt and pepper and whisk with olive oil.  Add the vinaigrette and vegetables/ herbs and toss.  Serve at room temperature.

The finished beef.

BREAKFAST AND ART

I went to a friend Julia's house for a homemade breakfast before heading into Manhattan to check out the Whitney Biennial.  She made the most delicious eggs Benedict I have ever had, which we paired with some fantastic Nueske's bacon my boyfriend's mother sent us from Massachusetts and some homemade bread.  The New York Times recently published a recipe for no knead bread that has been spreading like wildfire around my food-oriented friends.  Luckily, Julia has been nice enough to share her recipe along with the Times'.

Eggs Benedict with Homemade Bread and Smoked Bacon

(recipe by Julia Ziegler-Haynes.  Bread recipe adapted from the New York Times)

serves two hearty portions

6 strips smoked bacon

2 cloves garlic

1 pound fresh spinach

4 eggs

4 tablespoons butter

2 egg yokes

1/2 teaspoon lemon juice

fresh cracked pepper

sea salt

For bread:

3 cups all-purpose or bread flour (with extra for dusting)

1/4 teaspoon instant yeast

1-1/4 teaspoon salt

cornmeal or wheat bran for dusting

The night before (15-20 hours ahead of breakfast time) combine flour, yeast and salt for bread.  Add 1-5/8 cups water and stir until blended.  Dough will be shaggy and sticky.  Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let rest for at least 12 hours, preferably about 18, at room temperature.  Once the surface is dotted with bubbles, lightly flour a work surface and place dough on it.  Sprinkle with a little more flour and fold over on itself once or twice.  Cover loosely and let rest for 15 minutes.  Using just enough flour to keep the dough from sticking to the work surface and your fingers, gently and quickly shape the dough into a ball.  Coat a cotton towel generously with flour and cornmeal or wheat bran.  Put dough seam side down on the towel and dust with more flour, and bran or cornmeal.  Cover with another cotton towel and let rise for about 2 hours.  When it is ready, the dough will more than double in size and will not readily spring back when poked with a finger.  At least half an hour before dough is ready, heat oven to 450 degrees.  Put a 6-8 quart heavy covered pot (cast iron, enamel, pyrex or ceramic) in the oven as it heats.  When the dough is ready, carefully remove the pot from the oven.  Slide your hand under the towel and turn the dough over into the pot, seam side up.  Shake the pan once or twice until dough is evenly distributed (it will straighten out as it bakes).  Cover with a lid and bake 30 minutes, then remove lid and bake another 15-30 minutes until loaf is nicely browned.  Cool on a rack until the rest of the food is ready to eat.

Cook the bacon in a 12 inch skillet, while boiling pot of water to poach the eggs.  Wrap the cooked bacon in foil and paper towels to reheat just before serving.  Pour off most (but not all) of the fat.  Saute two large garlic cloves in the remaining fat over medium-low heat.  When it is is slightly translucent or starting to brown add the spinach and season with salt to taste.  Remove from heat when just wilted.  Poach 4 eggs and keep in a bowl of cool water when cooked to desired level.

For Hollandaise sauce, melt butter in a saucepan and set aside.  Whisk egg yokes with one tablespoons water and lemon juice and 1/4 teaspoon salt.  In a saucepan over low heat, stir the egg mixture until thick and sticky.  Remove from heat.  Add the melted butter slowly while stirring.  Set aside to rest.  Slice 4 pieces of the fresh bread and toast, reheat the eggs in a pot of hot water for 30 seconds each.  Top the toasts with spinach, one egg each and a generous amount of sauce.  Crack fresh pepper over and serve with the reheated bacon.

This isn't a light breakfast, but it is good fuel for a day of looking at art.  We ate then journeyed into the city to check out the 2010 Whitney Biennial.  Past shows have been a serious disappointment but this one was actually pretty engaging.  Highlights included textural paintings by Lesley Vance (above), drawings by local scenester Aurel Schmidt, photographic light images by Josh Brand and, in a refreshing change from most Biennials, an older artist whose pieces were my favorites in the show: Roland Flexner.  His sumi ink drawings are utterly hypnotic.  We left the Whitney hopeful and a little inspired before a walk through Central Park to the Humble Arts Foundation's 31 Women in Photography show opening at Affirmation Arts.  Friend Amelia Bauer had a piece in the show and it was a great end to a fun weekend day.

LATE WINTER FAMILY SUPPER

My sister came to New York for a visit and I threw a dinner party for family and friends in her honor (and to celebrate a soon-to-arrive addition to the family!)  I cracked open the Sunday Supper at Lucques cookbook, took a deep breath, and dove into an intense late winter/early spring dinner menu.

I first heard of this book from a friend who made a delicious lobster salad last summer in Maine.  This time on a cold, rainy March evening, the bulbs in the garden just starting to break out of the dirt, we started with a spring onion tart with Gruyere, smoked bacon and arugula salad; followed by bay scallops with chanterelles, sherry, and parsley breadcrumbs; then the main course of braised beef short ribs with whipped potatoes, Swiss chard and horseradish cream; and for dessert, a spectacular chocolate bread pudding brought by a friend.  Needless to say, I had my work cut out for me.  The first challenge was gathering all the ingredients including three separate stops at different Citarellas to find enough live in-shell bay scallops to fit the recipe.  It was a full day of prep and cooking, but I had a great time and the food turned out wonderfully.  I was so happy to get to spend time with my sister and good friends.  Spring is just around the corner!

Spring Onion Tart with Gruyere, Smoked Bacon, and Arugula Salad

(recipe adapted from Suzanne Goin's Sunday Suppers at Lucques)

serves 6

1 sheet frozen all-butter puff pastry

2 extra large egg yolks

1/2 pound slab smoked bacon (preferably applewood smoked)

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 cups diced spring onions

1 tablespoon thyme leaves

1/2 cup diagonally sliced spring onion tops

1/2 cup whole milk ricotta

1/4 cup creme fraiche

1/3 pound thinly sliced Gruyere or Comte

12-16 ounces baby arugula

1/2 lemon for juice

kosher salt

fresh ground pepper

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.  Defrost the puff pastry slightly and unroll it onto a parchment lined baking sheet.  Use a knife to score a 1/4" border around the edge of the pastry.  Make and egg wash with whisked egg yolk and a splash of water.  Brush the border with the egg wash.  Return the pastry to the freezer until ready to use it.

Slice the bacon into 3/8" thick slices, stack and cut crosswise into 3/8" cubes.  Heat a saute pan over high heat for 2 minutes, add 1 tablespoon oil and heat for another minute.  Add the bacon and saute over medium-high heat for 4-5 minutes.  Reduce heat to low, toss in onions, thyme, and 1/2 teaspoon salt.  Stir together until the onions are just wilted, toss in the onion tops and remove to a platter to cool.

Place the ricotta, remaining egg yolk and remaining tablespoon olive oil in the food processor.  Puree until smooth, transfer to a bowl and gently fold in creme fraiche.  Season with salt and pepper.  Spread the ricotta mixture on the puff pastry within the border.  Lay the Gruyere over and arrange the cooled bacon-onion mixture on top.

Bake for 20-25 minutes until the crust is golden brown.  Make sure the crust is cooked through by checking the underside of the tart.  Toss the salad ingredients together with lemon and oil, salt and pepper, and serve with wedges of tart.  The tart can be assembled and stored in the fridge until you are ready to bake it.

Bay Scallops with Chanterelles, Sherry, and Parsley Breadcrumbs

(recipe from Sunday Supper at Lucques)

serves 6

1 cup fresh breadcrumbs

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

8 tablespoons unsalted butter

3/4 pound chanterelle mushrooms, cleaned

2 teaspoons thyme leaves

1 cup sliced spring onions

48 bay scallops, live, in the shell

1 cup Amontillado sherry

1 cup chicken stock

1/2 cup heavy cream

kosher salt

fresh ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 375.  Toss the breadcrumbs with olive oil and 1 tablespoon parsley .  Spread on a baking sheet and toast for 8-10 minutes until golden brown.  Heat two saute pans or dutch ovens on high heat for 2 minutes.  Add 3 tablespoons butter to each pan.  As it foams, add the mushrooms, thyme, salt and pepper in equal parts to each pan.  Stir continually for 6-8 minutes until tender.  Turn the heat down to medium and add another tablespoon of butter to each pan.  Put half the spring onions in each pan, season with salt and pepper and cook 2-3 minutes.  Divide the scallops between the pans , stir to coat with butter.  After 2 minutes add sherry to each pan.  After 30 seconds add chicken stock to each pan.  Turn the heat back up to high and cover both pans.  Let the scallops steam open, covered, for about 5 minutes.  Once they have opened, add the cream, stir.  Toss remaining parsley and transfer contents of both pots to a large bowl.  Sprinkle with breadcrumbs and serve.

Braised Beef Short Ribs with Whipped Potatoes, Swiss Chard, and Horseradish Cream

(recipe adapted from Sunday Suppers at Lucques)

serves 6

6 beef short ribs, 14-16 ounces each

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon thyme leaves, and 4 whole sprigs of thyme

1 tablespoon freshly cracked black pepper

3 dozen small pearl onions

1/2 cup olive oil

1 cup diced onions

1/3 cup diced celery

1/3 cup diced carrot

2 bay leaves

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1-1/2 cups port wine

2-1/2 cups red wine

6 cups beef stock

4 sprigs flat leaf parsley

2 bunches Swiss chard, cleaned, center ribs removed

1-1/2 pounds russet potatoes

1-1/2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes

3/4 cup heavy cream

3/4 cup whole milk

2 sticks unsalted butter cut into chunks

kosher salt

3/4 cup creme fraiche

1 tablespoon prepared horseradish

Season the short ribs with 1 tablespoon thyme and cracked black pepper.  Coat each rib well, cover and refrigerate overnight.  Take the ribs out an hour before cooking, and after 30 minutes season generously with salt.  Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Toss the pearl onions with 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon thyme, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and a pinch of pepper.  Spread them on a baking sheet and roast for 15 minutes.  Take them out and once they have cooled, slip off the skins.  Turn the oven down to 325 degrees.

Heat a large saute pan over high heat for 3 minutes.  Pour 3 tablespoons olive oil and wait for a minute or two until the pan is very hot, almost smoking.  Place the short ribs in the pan and sear until they are nicely browned on all three meaty sides.  Take your time and do it in batches.  Transfer the ribs to the braising pan, bones standing up.

Turn the heat down to medium and add onion, carrot, celery, thyme sprigs and bay leaves to the pan.  Stir and scrape the crusty parts from the bottom of the pan.  Cook 6-8 minutes until the vegetables begin to caramelize.  Add balsamic vinegar, port, and red wine.  Turn up the heat to high and reduce the liquid by half.  Add the stock and bring to a boil.  Pout the liquid over the short ribs.  The stock mixture should almost cover the ribs.  Tuck the parsley sprigs around the meat.  Cover tightly with aluminum foil and braise for about 3 hours.

Place the potatoes, whole and unpeeled, in a large stockpot with 2 tablespoons salt and water.  Bring to a boil over high heat, then turn down heat and simmer for 40-45 minutes until tender.  Strain the cooked potatoes and let cool, then peel.  Mash the peeled potatoes well, then place in a heavy bottomed pan.  Heat over medium heat for a few minutes to dry them out a bit, then slowly add chunks of butter, stirring continually.  Season to taste.  At the same time, warm cream and milk in a small pot.  Once all the butter has been incorporated, slowly add the warmed cream/milk and continue to stir over a low heat.  You can let the potatoes cool and reheat just before serving, adding a bit of cream if necessary.  Once the potatoes are finished, combine the creme fraiche and horseradish in a small bowl.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Once the ribs are done, remove them from the oven and let sit for 10-15 minutes with the foil removed.  Be careful of the steam and check if ribs are done with a knife if necessary.  Turn the oven up to 400 degrees.  Place the short ribs in the oven for 10-15 minutes to brown.  Strain the broth into a sauce pan and turn up to a high heat to reduce, skimming fat off the top as necessary.  Season to taste.

Heat a large saute pan over high heat for 2 minutes.  Tear the Swiss chard into large pieces.  Add 3 tablespoons olive oil to the pan and cook for a minute or two to wilt the chard until tender.  Add salt and pepper while cooking and add the roasted pearl onions.  Place the chard on a platter, arrange the short ribs on top, and pour juices over the whole mix.  Serve with whipped potatoes and horseradish cream.

OSCAR TREAT

In honor of the Academy Awards, a friend and I made up some potato latkes with creme fraiche and a special treat of caviar.

Potato Latkes with Creme Fraiche and Caviar

serves 2 or 3

2 large russet potatoes

1 large egg, whisked

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1/2 shallot

3 tablespoons clarified butter

1-1/2 teaspoon sea salt

fresh ground black pepper

1/4 cup creme fraiche

1 ounce good caviar

Peel the potatoes and grate lengthwise.  Place in a kitchen towel and squeeze out the excess liquid.  Combine in a bowl with grated shallot, egg, flour, salt and pepper.

Melt the clarified butter in a skillet over medium heat, drop a spoonful of the mixture into the pan and flatten with a spatula.  Cook for 2 minutes, turn and flatten again, then cook for another 2 minutes.  Serve hot from the skillet with a dollop of creme fraiche and teaspoon of caviar.

I got my (absolutely tiny) can of caviar from New York's oldest and best purveyor of domestic caviar, Russ and Daughters, on Houston Street.

The inside hasn't changed much in nearly 100 years.

Here is my teeny, tiny 1 oz can of American Osteria caviar.

We also whipped up a quick spinach salad to go along.

The helpful clerk at Uva Wines recommended this "natural" champagne, which was grassy and delicious.  We enjoyed our treats while The Hurt Locker cleaned up the awards show.  It was a fun, mellow evening.

LUNCH BOX

In an effort to keep expenses down and reduce the amount of trash I make everyday, I am expiramenting with taking lunch to work in my new blue lunch box, purchased at Brooklyn Kitchen.  This week, I used my left over meatballs to make a sandwich.  Then I roasted some vegetables, added some arugula greens and a boiled egg and had myself a tasty little lunch.

 
Roasted Winter Vegetables

makes 6 servings

1 pound carrots

1 pound parsnips

1 large sweet potato

1 small butternut squash

1/2 cup chopped parsley

sea salt to taste

fresh ground pepper to taste

olive oil

Heat the oven to 425 degrees.  Cut the vegetables into 1" cubes, Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper.  Roast for 30 minutes then sprinkle with parsley.

OLD FASHIONED SPAGHETTI & MEATBALLS

Returning home after a long trip to the frozen tundra that is New York in February, I dove right into my comfort food recipes of choice from the Barefoot Contessa Family Style.  This is my favorite of her books, and I have had more success from this one book than any other at making delicious food for friends and loved ones.  Time to get cozy.

Spaghetti & Meatballs

(recipe adapted from Barefoot Contessa Family Style)

serves 6... but I like to make extra for sandwiches during the week

For the meatballs:

1/2 pound ground veal

1/2 pound ground pork

1 pound ground beef

1 cup fresh white breadcrumbs

1/4 cup seasoned dry bread crumbs

2 tablespoons chopped flat leaf parsley

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan

2 tablespoons kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

a dash of cinnamon

1 extra large egg, beaten

vegetable oil

olive oil

Place the ground meats, bread crumbs, parsley, cheese, salt, pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon, egg and 3/4 cup of warm water in a bowl.  Combine carefully with your hands.  Form mixture into 2 inch diameter balls.

Pour equal amounts vegetable and olive oil into a large skillet, to a depth of 1/4".  Heat the oil.  Very carefully, in batches of 4 or 5, place the meatballs in the oil and brown on all sides.  This is a bit tricky, and you have to pay close attention to keep the balls from sticking to the pan bottom.  Remove from the oil and put on a tray with paper towels to absorb the excess oil.  Discard the oil but do not clean the pan.

For the spaghetti and sauce:

1 tablespoon good olive oil

1 cup chopped yellow onion

1-1/2 teaspoon  minced garlic

1/2 cup good red wine

1 28 ounce can crushed tomatoes

1 tablespoon chopped flat leaf parsley

1-1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1-1/2 pounds spaghetti

Heat the olive oil in the meatball pan.  Add the onions and saute over medium heat for 5 to 10 minutes.  Add the garlic and cook for one more minute.  Add the wine and cook on high heat, scraping up all the brown bits from the pan until most of the liquid evaporates.  Stir in tomatoes, parsley, salt, and pepper.  Return the meatballs to the sauce, cover and simmer on lowest heat for 25 to 30 minutes until the meatballs are cooked through.  Serve hot with the cooked spaghetti and grated Parmesan cheese.

BDAY, PART II

The birthday dinner: bouillabaisse.

Bouillabaisse

(recipe from Piera Gelardi)

Serves 10-12

3 live lobsters

1 bottle olive oil

1 cup chopped onion

1/2 cup celery with stalks, chopped

4 cloves garlic, chopped

2 bay leaves

8 peppercorns

sea salt

4 fresh sprigs thyme

8 cups water or seafood stock

2 bottles clam juice

1 bottle white wine

2 leeks

2 medium fennel bulbs

juice and zest of 1 orange

1 pound shrimp, peeled and deveined (save shells)

1 pinch saffron

2 cans whole tomatoes, crushed by hand

1 bunch Italian parsley, chopped

2 pounds assorted shellfish: little neck clams, cockles, scallops

1 filet whitefish (cod or tillapia)

First cook lobster in hot olive oil in a large pot until bright red. Reserve oil. Seperate lobster meat and reserve.

For the broth, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in another pot, sautee onion, celery, 3 cloves of chopped garlic, bay leaves, peppercorns, salt thyme for 5 minutes. Add water or stock and clam juice, wine, leek greens (save whites for later) fennel ends (save bulbs for later) and shrimp shells (save shrimp meat). Simmer on a low heat for 60-90 minutes, strain.

Place strained stock back on heat, add 1 pinch saffron, 1 cup leek whites (thinly sliced), 1 cup fennel bulbs (thinly sliced), 1/2 cup lobster oil, tomatoes, orange juice, orange zest, 2 tablespoons chopped garlic, parsley. Simmer until vegetables are tender, then add clams and fish. 5 minutes later add cockles, then in another 5 add scallops. Lastly add shrimp and cooked lobster meat. Once clams are opening, serve with fresh parsley and slices of baguette with saffron aioli (see below).

Saffron Ailoli

(recipe from cooking.com)

Makes 1 cup

20 strands of saffron

1-1/2 tablespoons warm water

2 large egg yolks

1 large garlic clove, minced

1/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup olive oil

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

fresh ground pepper

Soak saffron in warm water in a small bowl for 20 minutes. In a deep bowl, combine egg yolks, garlic, salt and whisk to combine. Very slowly, dribble the oil, whisking all continuously.

Add the saffron and its soaking water, then use the lemon juice to swirl around the saffron soaking bowl to catch any remaining essence. Whisk the lemon juice into the aioli. Add a few grinds of pepper. Make at least 4 hours before using, refrigerate until served.

Beet and Asian Pear Salad
(recipe from Piera Gelardi)
serves 10

2 bunches red beets
2 bunches golden beets
2/3 cup slivered almonds
9 tablespoons olive oil
3 shallots, minced
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
juice of 1 lemon
2 large asain pears, sliced thinly
1 pound baby arugula leaves
1 tablespoon sugar
sea salt
fresh ground pepper

Preheat oven to 400. Wrap bunches of beets in tinfoil and roast for 1-1/4 hours. Sautee slivered almonds in olive oil until golden brown, drain, reserve oil, and set aside to let cool. Season with salt.

Whisk shallots, vinegar, lemon juice, sugar, oil from the almonds, salt and pepper to taste together.

Once the beets have cooled down, mix them with the shallot dressing and pears, serve on a plate with portions of arugula.