SCOTLAND

It has been an embarrassingly long time since the last entry. Career and marriage took over most of my time in 2011, and both focuses bore results I am very happy about. More about that some other day perhaps. Anyway, in an effort to pick things up here at this dusty, abandoned outpost of history, design, food, travel, and life, I am starting up entries just before we leave for a nearly 7 week trip to Southeast Asia. Here, as a meek sort of "dipping my toes in for the first time in a long time," are images from our recent trip to Scotland.

Our first stop after Glasgow was the Isle of Skye, where we stayed with family in a cozy rambling farmhouse perched 300 feet above the sea.

We hiked to old dun ruins, ate hearty soups, read history, and drank whiskey by the peat fire.

Peats are bits dried turf from bogs that are burned in lieu of fire wood. Here they are being stored in a dry spot.

We also drove the family cows down to town where some were separated to be sold to market. Life on the farm... where the family raises their own meat and grows most if their own vegetables. Scottish crofters have been practicing locavorism out of necessity and economics since before, during and after the industrial food revolution and the tradition continues today.

The trip to Scotland was planned around a cousin's wedding-- a fun, rainy-day affair in a tent in a field near the sea complete with a rainbow and a traditional Scottish Ceilidh afterwards which lasted late into the evening. I must say it was really fun.

The sun came out for about 15 minutes on our last day. We used the opportunity to explore the nearby town of Mallaig. You might know this small windswept village from the movie Breaking the Waves.

More posts of our journey to Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and Thailand coming soon...

MARCH SHOWERS, APRIL FLOWERS

Spring has come and the intense rains of March followed by some very warm days (and one quite hot day) of early April weather shock sprouted the garden.  Last year's daffodils and hyacinth were out early.  I also planted some pansies and ranunculus to cope with the usual bouts of cold we still get here in the early part of the month, and I thought for a while it was an unnecessary step since we had so much sun and heat this month.  A single night of frost last week, however, killed all the non-hardy plants my neighbor put out too early.  Nature is a cruel mistress.

LATE WINTER FAMILY SUPPER

My sister came to New York for a visit and I threw a dinner party for family and friends in her honor (and to celebrate a soon-to-arrive addition to the family!)  I cracked open the Sunday Supper at Lucques cookbook, took a deep breath, and dove into an intense late winter/early spring dinner menu.

I first heard of this book from a friend who made a delicious lobster salad last summer in Maine.  This time on a cold, rainy March evening, the bulbs in the garden just starting to break out of the dirt, we started with a spring onion tart with Gruyere, smoked bacon and arugula salad; followed by bay scallops with chanterelles, sherry, and parsley breadcrumbs; then the main course of braised beef short ribs with whipped potatoes, Swiss chard and horseradish cream; and for dessert, a spectacular chocolate bread pudding brought by a friend.  Needless to say, I had my work cut out for me.  The first challenge was gathering all the ingredients including three separate stops at different Citarellas to find enough live in-shell bay scallops to fit the recipe.  It was a full day of prep and cooking, but I had a great time and the food turned out wonderfully.  I was so happy to get to spend time with my sister and good friends.  Spring is just around the corner!

Spring Onion Tart with Gruyere, Smoked Bacon, and Arugula Salad

(recipe adapted from Suzanne Goin's Sunday Suppers at Lucques)

serves 6

1 sheet frozen all-butter puff pastry

2 extra large egg yolks

1/2 pound slab smoked bacon (preferably applewood smoked)

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 cups diced spring onions

1 tablespoon thyme leaves

1/2 cup diagonally sliced spring onion tops

1/2 cup whole milk ricotta

1/4 cup creme fraiche

1/3 pound thinly sliced Gruyere or Comte

12-16 ounces baby arugula

1/2 lemon for juice

kosher salt

fresh ground pepper

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.  Defrost the puff pastry slightly and unroll it onto a parchment lined baking sheet.  Use a knife to score a 1/4" border around the edge of the pastry.  Make and egg wash with whisked egg yolk and a splash of water.  Brush the border with the egg wash.  Return the pastry to the freezer until ready to use it.

Slice the bacon into 3/8" thick slices, stack and cut crosswise into 3/8" cubes.  Heat a saute pan over high heat for 2 minutes, add 1 tablespoon oil and heat for another minute.  Add the bacon and saute over medium-high heat for 4-5 minutes.  Reduce heat to low, toss in onions, thyme, and 1/2 teaspoon salt.  Stir together until the onions are just wilted, toss in the onion tops and remove to a platter to cool.

Place the ricotta, remaining egg yolk and remaining tablespoon olive oil in the food processor.  Puree until smooth, transfer to a bowl and gently fold in creme fraiche.  Season with salt and pepper.  Spread the ricotta mixture on the puff pastry within the border.  Lay the Gruyere over and arrange the cooled bacon-onion mixture on top.

Bake for 20-25 minutes until the crust is golden brown.  Make sure the crust is cooked through by checking the underside of the tart.  Toss the salad ingredients together with lemon and oil, salt and pepper, and serve with wedges of tart.  The tart can be assembled and stored in the fridge until you are ready to bake it.

Bay Scallops with Chanterelles, Sherry, and Parsley Breadcrumbs

(recipe from Sunday Supper at Lucques)

serves 6

1 cup fresh breadcrumbs

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

8 tablespoons unsalted butter

3/4 pound chanterelle mushrooms, cleaned

2 teaspoons thyme leaves

1 cup sliced spring onions

48 bay scallops, live, in the shell

1 cup Amontillado sherry

1 cup chicken stock

1/2 cup heavy cream

kosher salt

fresh ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 375.  Toss the breadcrumbs with olive oil and 1 tablespoon parsley .  Spread on a baking sheet and toast for 8-10 minutes until golden brown.  Heat two saute pans or dutch ovens on high heat for 2 minutes.  Add 3 tablespoons butter to each pan.  As it foams, add the mushrooms, thyme, salt and pepper in equal parts to each pan.  Stir continually for 6-8 minutes until tender.  Turn the heat down to medium and add another tablespoon of butter to each pan.  Put half the spring onions in each pan, season with salt and pepper and cook 2-3 minutes.  Divide the scallops between the pans , stir to coat with butter.  After 2 minutes add sherry to each pan.  After 30 seconds add chicken stock to each pan.  Turn the heat back up to high and cover both pans.  Let the scallops steam open, covered, for about 5 minutes.  Once they have opened, add the cream, stir.  Toss remaining parsley and transfer contents of both pots to a large bowl.  Sprinkle with breadcrumbs and serve.

Braised Beef Short Ribs with Whipped Potatoes, Swiss Chard, and Horseradish Cream

(recipe adapted from Sunday Suppers at Lucques)

serves 6

6 beef short ribs, 14-16 ounces each

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon thyme leaves, and 4 whole sprigs of thyme

1 tablespoon freshly cracked black pepper

3 dozen small pearl onions

1/2 cup olive oil

1 cup diced onions

1/3 cup diced celery

1/3 cup diced carrot

2 bay leaves

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1-1/2 cups port wine

2-1/2 cups red wine

6 cups beef stock

4 sprigs flat leaf parsley

2 bunches Swiss chard, cleaned, center ribs removed

1-1/2 pounds russet potatoes

1-1/2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes

3/4 cup heavy cream

3/4 cup whole milk

2 sticks unsalted butter cut into chunks

kosher salt

3/4 cup creme fraiche

1 tablespoon prepared horseradish

Season the short ribs with 1 tablespoon thyme and cracked black pepper.  Coat each rib well, cover and refrigerate overnight.  Take the ribs out an hour before cooking, and after 30 minutes season generously with salt.  Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Toss the pearl onions with 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon thyme, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and a pinch of pepper.  Spread them on a baking sheet and roast for 15 minutes.  Take them out and once they have cooled, slip off the skins.  Turn the oven down to 325 degrees.

Heat a large saute pan over high heat for 3 minutes.  Pour 3 tablespoons olive oil and wait for a minute or two until the pan is very hot, almost smoking.  Place the short ribs in the pan and sear until they are nicely browned on all three meaty sides.  Take your time and do it in batches.  Transfer the ribs to the braising pan, bones standing up.

Turn the heat down to medium and add onion, carrot, celery, thyme sprigs and bay leaves to the pan.  Stir and scrape the crusty parts from the bottom of the pan.  Cook 6-8 minutes until the vegetables begin to caramelize.  Add balsamic vinegar, port, and red wine.  Turn up the heat to high and reduce the liquid by half.  Add the stock and bring to a boil.  Pout the liquid over the short ribs.  The stock mixture should almost cover the ribs.  Tuck the parsley sprigs around the meat.  Cover tightly with aluminum foil and braise for about 3 hours.

Place the potatoes, whole and unpeeled, in a large stockpot with 2 tablespoons salt and water.  Bring to a boil over high heat, then turn down heat and simmer for 40-45 minutes until tender.  Strain the cooked potatoes and let cool, then peel.  Mash the peeled potatoes well, then place in a heavy bottomed pan.  Heat over medium heat for a few minutes to dry them out a bit, then slowly add chunks of butter, stirring continually.  Season to taste.  At the same time, warm cream and milk in a small pot.  Once all the butter has been incorporated, slowly add the warmed cream/milk and continue to stir over a low heat.  You can let the potatoes cool and reheat just before serving, adding a bit of cream if necessary.  Once the potatoes are finished, combine the creme fraiche and horseradish in a small bowl.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Once the ribs are done, remove them from the oven and let sit for 10-15 minutes with the foil removed.  Be careful of the steam and check if ribs are done with a knife if necessary.  Turn the oven up to 400 degrees.  Place the short ribs in the oven for 10-15 minutes to brown.  Strain the broth into a sauce pan and turn up to a high heat to reduce, skimming fat off the top as necessary.  Season to taste.

Heat a large saute pan over high heat for 2 minutes.  Tear the Swiss chard into large pieces.  Add 3 tablespoons olive oil to the pan and cook for a minute or two to wilt the chard until tender.  Add salt and pepper while cooking and add the roasted pearl onions.  Place the chard on a platter, arrange the short ribs on top, and pour juices over the whole mix.  Serve with whipped potatoes and horseradish cream.

SPT DAY 37, 37 AGAIN, & 38-42: PAPEETE AND BORA BORA

Miles flown so far: 21,254

As a result of airline tickets purchased with mileage points, the attached blackout dates and other limitations, we were "forced" to stay 5 nights in French Polynesia on the way home.  We made the most of it by booking some time on Bora Bora: that magical, quasi-imaginary place of exotic paradise lost in the South Pacific.  This concept rings less true in the rainy season, when we were there.  We flew into Papeete, the capital of French Polynesia and the largest city on Tahiti.  We didn't see much of the city, but the airport cafeteria and the Tahiti Airport Motel (our layover for one night) were two things best avoided.

 

The tiny flight to Bora Bora the next morning took off into sheets of rain like I have never seen.  The waters parted in time for landing, and I was able to get a shot of the island and its resorts.

Almost every moment of our time on the island it rained, or was cloudy, or was cloudy and rainy.  Besides that, however, you could see what a special, beautiful place this was.  The colors of the water, sky and sand were otherworldly.

Our one good sunset.

And a rainbow!

The time we spent in Bora Bora was an unexpected luxurious addition to an already spectacular trip.  I am so glad we were able to experience it, even in the rain.  That said, I made some mistakes when arranging the trip that I wish I could have changed.  Staying at a resort on Bora Bora is not a good introduction to Polynesian culture and cuisine, and I knew that it would not be.  It is one of the most spectacular islands in the world, and the idealized version of the South Pacific (which is why all those resorts are there).  I will admit I wanted to fulfil the fantasy of an over water bungalow looking out over an azure lagoon.  I got this, and it was romantic and private and wonderful, despite the rain.  Beyond the room and the surroundings, I wish we hadn't felt so trapped at our specific resort.  The food was terrible and overpriced.  If our time in French Polynesia had not been such a tack-on to the planning of our entire trip, I wish we could have seen some of the less inhabited islands and sought out a more authentic experience.  I watched the No Reservations episode about French Polynesia and it seemed so much more interesting than the country we visited: eating food caught yourself in a breezy locally-built bungalow with no electricity looking out at several other uninhabited islands under thousands of stars.  In short, becasue of our hasty planning and limited time, our Polynesian fantasy was not fully realized, but it was a relaxing and peaceful stay, nonetheless.

A nice end to an epic journey to the other side of the world... and I really feel ready to go home!