Since the 1990's sweeping cultural and economic changes brought by the reintroduction of capitalism in Vietnam have transformed the landscape of the country along with the society. Where traditional low rise tube houses (as in Hoi An), French colonial mansions, and some depressing Socialist block architecture was once the norm, the prosperity brought by reform has added an interesting new architectural feature to the mix: the rocket building.
Original land lease plots, defined by the traditional limited street front to cut down on tax assessments, which was measured by linear feet of retail frontage, continue to be long and narrow. As buildings are renovated and expanded, families and businesses are building up instead of out. Impossibly narrow structures 4-5 stories tall dot the outskirts of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, and even the main streets of formerly sleepy villages.
In what I can only describe as "LED-wedding-cake-faux-French-colonial" style, these teetering expressions of the new econonmy are often festooned with every over-the-top pilaster and decorative balustrade the owners can seem to get their hands on, then painted in sickly pastels and shocking neon colors. At first, driving by building after building like this, I started to feel a little ill. After 10 days in Vietnam, however, I grew to appreciate these structures. There seems to be an infinite variety of personal expression and really unbridled optimism in so many of them, even if they are kind of ugly. Someday they might carry the charm those old tube houses, traditional narrow-laned villages, and French colonial "masterpieces" do. Maybe.
Since the 1990's sweeping cultural and economic changes brought by the reintroduction of capitalism in Vietnam have transformed the landscape of the country along with the society. Where traditional low rise tube houses (as in Hoi An), French colonial mansions, and some depressing Socialist block architecture was once the norm, the prosperity brought by reform has added an interesting new architectural feature to the mix: the rocket building.
Original land lease plots, defined by the traditional limited street front to cut down on tax assessments, which was measured by linear feet of retail frontage, continue to be long and narrow. As buildings are renovated and expanded, families and businesses are building up instead of out. Impossibly narrow structures 4-5 stories tall dot the outskirts of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, and even the main streets of formerly sleepy villages. 
In what I can only describe as "LED-wedding-cake-faux-French-colonial" style, these teetering expressions of the new econonmy are often festooned with every over-the-top pilaster and decorative balustrade the owners can seem to get their hands on, then painted in sickly pastels and shocking neon colors. At first, driving by building after building like this, I started to feel a little ill. After 10 days in Vietnam, however, I grew to appreciate these structures. There seems to be an infinite variety of personal expression and really unbridled optimism in so many of them, even if they are kind of ugly. Someday they might carry the charm those old tube houses, traditional narrow-laned villages, and French colonial "masterpieces" do. Maybe.
SO MUCH SOOTHING CONTENT ON AHFAHS THESE DAYS!!!
ReplyDeletebeautifully soulful images capture the essence and humanity. Nice.
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