CHANG MAI

Chang Mai is Thailand's second largest city and the former capital of the Tai-Yuan kingdom of Lanna (as opposed to the southern Tai-Syam kingdoms of Sukhothai and later Ayuthaya). Lanna means Kingdom of a Million Rice Fields, and although Chang Mai is a large city, it feels green and manageable, surrounded by farmland, much of which is quickly being transformed into suburbs and shopping malls. The old part of the city is loaded with over 300 temples in an area 6 miles square. Buildings are not allowed to be built higher than the tallest temples and stupas. It still has a bustle, but is a pleasant and highly walkable town.

Lanna architecture is exquisite. There are some similarities with Lao temple design, but the flourishes and details, as well as the quality of craftsmanship, reaches elaborate new heights. Many temples are restored, but few were completely destroyed like they were in Laos. Lanna fell into alliances and wars with its neighbors (see this map of the area in the 13th century for reference) and influences from Sukhothai, the Shan states, Burmese Ava, and beyond can be seen.

Here, a temple built entirely out of teak. Despite quite a bit of logging over the centuries, the woods of Chang Mai province are in some of the best shape of all of Thailand, and beyond the rice paddies are beautiful forests and mountains. More on that in a moment.

Another typical home converted into a museum. In this case, the Center for Lanna Architecture. This home from the 19th century shows traditional Lanna details in teak on the upper floors with a more European flair on the lower floors. The people of Thailand, in the face of colonialism, quickly adapted new technologies, fashions and political mechanisms which ended up keeping Thailand from becoming a British or French protectorate.

Chang Mai has a bit of an earthy, hippy-ster vibe. There is lots of organic produce, loose raw cotton clothing, and "namaste" style bad art. There is an earlier tradition in the area for craftsmanship, carving, and furniture making, however. This interesting antiques and art shop, Srivalee, on Ratchapakinai road, was fantastic and I found all kinds of great textiles and wood carved antiques.

The number one draw to Chang Mai, however, has got to be the food. For the most part, it surpassed anything else we had during the earlier part of the trip (with the possible exception of a few meals in Vietnam). Not that it is a competition... we have had great food everywhere... just that in Chang Mai it was so varied and so new and so consistently great. Above, our guide Thong took us to his family's restaurant, Laab Lung Pan, on the outskirts of town. They specialize in Laab, or minced meats in a variety of spicy sauces.

Thong cooked for us himself. So much food!

Tom yum kai with chicken and banana flower.

Laab! Chicken, pork, gang aum nuam (buffalo), isan (NE Thai with pork & beef), and the local specialty, gang um mu (pork with 16 different spices). Chang Mai was on the southern spur of the Silk Road for much of its history, and the flavors here reflect an ability to get all kinds of ingredients from the sea to the mountains, and China to India to Indonesia. Incredible.

And for dessert, freshly fried bamboo worms. Our new favorite snack.

We also had delicious mango with sweet sticky rice.

Sick of all the northern Thai delicacies (just kidding) we opted for a southern Thai restaurant one afternoon. It showcased totally different flavors. Above, panang curry, gang dai pla (fish organ soup), catfish curry, green curry with buffalo, pork curry and fried pork with sugar cane.

My husband's favorite restaurant, Somtam, was visited twice at its pretty riverside location.

Khow soi ruam. The world's most delicious combination of noodles, curry, coconut, and chicken. I don't know what they do to this to make it so amazing, but we devoured ours.

Two types of papaya salad: Somtam tod, at bottom, and tam kong tod, at top. Tam kong tod is sliced green papaya with crispy river shrimp and peanuts. Somtam tod is crispy papaya with the restaurant's special sauce. They were even better when mixed together.

Tap tim, or steamed snapper from Pla Po Pak Sod restaurant, also on the outskirts of town.

Pad cha, or spicy snapper with red chili paste and vegetables.

And a southern import, pu sen, or crab with glass noodles.

We also saw an impressive amount of food at the famous Chang Mai night market.

We were full, but tried this delicious grilled banana.

The nature surrounding the city is also not to be missed. One day we drove up to Thailand's highest mountain, an 8,500 foot high peak that is part of the Himalayan mountain chain. The weather on top was actually really cool, and the plant life almost alpine like.

We hiked around, past a number of waterwalls and through flower farms deep in the woods that used to be opium plantations. The Kingdom of a Million Rice Fields really was impressive in its culture, nature, food and architecture. I am so curious to compare it to Bangkok and central Thailand, as well as the Malay-influenced south, where we are headed next. There will be a lag in posts, as I will be off the grid completely for the next week. Until then!

CALIFORNIA BIRTHDAY

It was my own big 3-0 last week... but the real fun was getting to attend my close friend Elizabeth's birthday party in Oakland, California.  She put on a beautiful little cocktail party with great food and drink, and I got to help set up and then enjoy some fun east bay shops, food and treats the day after.

The ham was my boyfriend's idea.  It was popular.

Delicious chocolate dipped potato chips.

Elizabeth served special cocktails mixed up by a local bartending legend from Oliveto... one of the area's best restaurants.

A popcorn machine rental added some fun.

Here is a gorgeous Victorian in the hostess' hometown of Oakland.  I walked around the place several times in order to fully appreciate the interesting landscape design.


Speaking of landscape design, on a tour of the area we stopped in on housewares store Lola, and I bought a great book on the work of Northern California based landscape architect Andrea Cochran.  Cochran sites some of her strongest influences as Luis Barragan and Robert Irwin, two of my favorite architects/artists, and she has does some great work herself.  Her favorite project of mine is Stone Edge Vineyard in Sonoma.

Lola was a fantastic shop.  The entrance had a copper screen door... something I would like to see more of on all the world's windows and doors.

One of my favorite home stores: Tail of the Yak.

Even more charming deliciousness at Ici ice cream shop

THE best ice cream I have ever had, with the most interesting flavor combinations.  Candied tangerine and lime!  Yum!

And, of course, the crowning glory of the east bay food scene... Oliveto.  I had my departing meal here before boarding a red eye back to New York.  Lamb crudo, an insane hen ragu, and wild boar sausage.  It did not disappoint.  Happy Birthday Elizabeth!

SPT DAYS 28 & 29: KAIKOURA PENINSULA

Just 40 minutes outside of lush, hilly Picton the landscape flattens out and opens up to fields and vineyards.  We stopped for lunch at the Twelve Trees restaurant at the Allen Scott Winery in Blenheim.

The pretty buildings of the winery were made using rammed earth construction.

I started with a little tasting plate of wild duck and rabbit rillettes, cured salmon and pickled grapes.

A fresh beef carpaccio was a great main course with a glass of the 2008 Moorlands Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.

After lunch we set out again for the coast, and the landscape turned grassy and hilly... then the electric blue ocean appeared.

The South Island's east coast.

We arrived in the little town of Kaikoura on the peninsula of the same name just in time for an afternoon whale watching expedition.  We were told it was a great day to see a whale, and that Whale Watch Kaikoura had a 95% success rate in spotting whales, sharks, albatross and other wildlife.  The deep water trench just off the coast means that groups of Sperm Whales are consistently congregating in the area.  I couldn't wait!  Just before we boarded the boat, a fog rolled in.

By the time we made it out over the trench, the fog reduced visibility to near nothing.  The captain used this funny device to search sonically for whales below the surface.  He would listen carefully, then rush to the ship's control room and we would zip off into the gray abyss.  This process was repeated 10 or so times over the course of two hours.

This was pretty much what we saw while whale watching in Kaikoura.

The next day was windy and rainy, so no second attempt was made to see a whale.  I was determined to see some of Kaikoura's famed wild life, however, and dragged by boyfriend into the driving rain for a hike around the peninsula.

Most everything we saw was trying to hide from the rain.  At first I was sure this was a penguin, but my boyfriend insisted it was not.  

This seal was also unamused by the rain, and by our inquisitiveness.  Signs warning to stay at least 10 meters away from the seals were loosely interpreted (who can convert metric on the spot like that?) and we got a nasty warning growl to get the hell away.  By the end of the walk the sun came out for a bit, and we could say we experienced some of the local nature, even if it was just a cranky seal and not a Sperm Whale.

Our hotel about 10 minutes south of town was the best we have stayed in here in New Zealand. The Hapuku Lodge and Tree Houses are built with locally sourced materials high on supports to maximize views of the ocean and snow capped mountains on either side.  It was some of the most interesting, unique and sensitive architecture I have seen on this trip.

Unfortunately the tree houses were booked, but our room in the main lodge was very nice as well.  One problem with the place: they were in the process of installing a pool and expanding the grounds and landscaping.  All of this looked like it was going to be beautiful when it was completed, but in the meantime we were surrounded by a construction pit.  The service was good, the architecture great, the decor very nice, and the views beyond the gravel and cement mixers breathtaking... it just would have been nice to have all those gorgeous local plants to frame everything.  Also, and it is a small thing, but every hotel in the world should be obliged to mail postcards for their guests instead of sending them to find the post office in town.  It is just good service.

Another highlight of the hotel, and our trip, was the food.  Here is the duck liver pate.

The main course of rack of lamb.

And my strawberry balsamic tart for dessert.  

While so much of New Zealand's food is sourced locally, you aren't really made aware of that fact unless you ask.  Curious, because in the states and the UK, and even Australia, a dish's provenance is touted and the locavore obsession means foods that are obtained nearby are often priced at a premium.  In New Zealand, I think because of its isolation, it only makes sense to source locally.  Why would anyone go through the trouble of doing it any other way?  Lucky them.